Do the Math

The Health Care Bill will ____ Small Business

Will the health care bill help or hurt small business owners? That mainly depends on one factor: whether or not they already offer health insurance.

If you own a small business that presently offers health care, the health care bill will obviously help your profitability. A central feature of all the proposals is the creation of a national risk pool, which would eliminate the penalty small businesses face because of their tiny risk pools. This would enable small businesses to compete for labor with larger businesses, and it may even bring rates down.

Macroeconomics dictates what will happen next: the marketplace will reward employers who have already been offering health insurance. Your competitors who do not presently offer health insurance will see their costs increase at the same time yours decreases. They will respond by providing the absolute bare minimum necessary to comply with the health law, then raising prices while yours remain constant. This will result in greater market share for you, which will result in your needing to hire more employees, with benefits that exceed the bare minimum.

US Small Businesses will not become less competitive, because we already can't compete with countries that have lower labor costs. An 8% increase in labor costs will not make us less likely to take business away from a factory in China where workers earn $40 per month. US Small Businesses compete with each other--and if they all have to offer health insurance nothing will change except that their workers, and our economy, will be healthier. A recent government imposition of health regulation that was bitterly fought by small business may provide a glimpse into the future: when New York City banned smoking in bars and restaurants, their owners predicted the end of Manhattan nightlife. Guess what--people adjusted. Quickly. Given no choice, people gave up smoking inside but not drinking. The model has proliferated nationwide.

If you don't offer health care to your employees, that means one of three things:

1) You are bad at math: your employees are paying for their own health care with after-tax money. Which means you have to pay them at least $1200 (which costs you a minimum of $1400 after employer taxes and workers comp) for them to be able to afford an $800 per month policy. In the short run, your expenses will increase--but you will be able to adjust income for new hires and your existing employees will end up having far more discretionary income at no extra cost to you. Unfortunately, you didn't understand what I just said, and that blonde lady on Fox say "health care bill bad".

2) You are great at math: your employees are on Medicare or some other form of public assistance--which means other businesses are paying for your workers' health insurance. That's a great deal that I can't blame small businesses for fighting to keep. Unfortunately, the present system will bankrupt our country in the near future. You will likely find a way to punish your workers for this, but since you are probably paying minimum wage it will take a while for you to recoup these funds. You know exactly what you are fighting against, and your employees are also fighting against this bill because they see it as a battle between the Medicare they already have, and the hurt The Man will bring down on them if he has to pay for your insurance.

3) You see your employees as unskilled and replaceable. That might actually be the case--because the employees you'd want to retain are working at some other company that offers health insurance. But that is never the case with "the job"--as I've learned owning a small business, showing up for work on time, the ability to be trained and improve on your own, and working well with others is a skill that is increasingly rare in America. Or, you are the only game in town--most likely a small town in the Southeast. Either way your employees have no health insurance. They come to work sick, or miss more work than they need to, or switch jobs as soon as they need health insurance. Short term bad, long term good.

It might help to understand why businesses began offering health insurance in the first place. Back in the day of The Organization Man, when tax rates for executives exceeded 50%, health insurance was a non taxable perk that actually paid for itself by keeping key men healthy. When tax rates began falling, company provided health care was taken for granted as a perk necessary to attract talent. So health was a white collar tax shelter. Blue collar workers got their insurance courtesy of labor unions. Health insurance is still a privilege of white collar workers and unionized blue collar workers. This bill will benefit non union, blue collar workers and their families more than any other demographic. It will also hurt their employers in the short run. They'll get over it.
 

Kissell, My Ass

The executive branch has always had the power to redefine words to serve their interests.  Reagan's USDA reclassified "ketchup" as a vegetable so school lunches could meet both budgetary and nutritional requirements.  George W.'s DOJ redefined "torture" so as not to violate international agreements, and Bill Clinton himself took a stab at redefining the meaning of "is" with reference to another sort of violation. 

Now Obama's Department of Homeland Security has redefined the word "domestic" to include products made in Mexico and Canada in order to reconcile the "Buy American" provisions of the Stimulus Package with NAFTA.  

So the Kissell Amendment, which was intended to give USA manufacturers an edge, has actually handed the edge to Mexico, which is now allowed to bid on "domestic" contracts but is exempt from any of the Workers Rights provisions of the Federal Acquisition Regulations regarding workplace safety, overtime, child labor, and other abuses. There is just one problem: the Kissell Amendment does not use the word “domestic".  It specifically requires that TSA Uniforms be produced "in the United States".

But redefining the meaning of "in the United States" to include Mexico would torpedo another Homeland Security Program: E-Verify. On the same day that the Transportation Safety Administration released their uniform program featuring the new definition of "domestic" the Senate passed the "E-Verify Amendment", an attempt to legislate George Bush's executive order that federal contractors use none other than the Department of Homeland Security's electronic system verify the legal status of their workers for work performed "in the United States". 

As the Senate's "E-Verify Amendment" Sponsor, Jeff Sessions said, "Our unemployment rate is now at 9.5 percent, the highest in 25 years. E-Verify is a critical tool to ensuring that jobs go to lawful, taxpaying, American workers -- which, in the current recession, is more important than ever before. I am pleased that the Senate has agreed that federal contractors benefiting from the stimulus should be required to use the program in the future."  He did not add, "or they will have to manufacture their products in Mexico" at the end but he could have to make the statement more accurate.

Something’s gotta give here.  If “Buy American” violates the anti-protectionism procurement laws of the World Trade Organization, wouldn’t a law requiring that American Citizens work on federal contracts violate the same laws?   If Homeland Security redefines "produced in the United States" as it sees fit for its own contracts does it have to hold other federal agencies to the same standard?

 

Reviva La Mexico

In 1992, Ross Perot foretold of NAFTA causing a grand migration of jobs to Mexico to emit a "giant sucking sound." I started Unionwear the month Perot made that famous prediction and spent the next few years second guessing my career choice.

Q. So why don't I ever see apparel labelled "Made in Mexico?"

Step 1: The law of supply and demand met the law of unintended consequences

Legend has it that immediately after the passage of NAFTA, US agribusinesses began flooding the Mexican market with cheap corn and other farm products. This drove Mexican farmers out of business, and North in search of factory jobs faster than American maquiladoras could be deployed along the US-Mexico border. The supply of cheap labor outpaced the demand for it, and real wages began shrinking. Desperate, Mexicans began illegally crossing the border where they were able to find work building and maintaining the houses built during the real estate bubble and filling entry level positions in the burgeoning service economy.

Step 2: Natural selection meets adverse selection

In 1995 I was kibitzing with Milty, an avuncular garmento across the aisle at M.A.G.I.C., a Las Vegas Menswear Convention. He had just pulled the plug on his Mexico operations and decided to move it to China. "Mexicans are not like Americans. They worked until they made $200 then they would quit and go back to their villages. We could never get any momentum." An agrarian worker content with seasonal employment must have seemed odd to Milty. His grandparents probably uprooted their lives at the turn of the century in order to escape a permanent struggle with survival. They came to America and contributed to a gene pool already wired to chase dreams. As we broke down our booths, Uncle Milty tossed me a sample shirt I had been eyeing. "Do yourself a favor. Don't wash the f:)kin' thing."

When manufacturers began deploying maquiladoras right on the US border they begged for what the health insurance industry terms "adverse selection" in their labor pool. The $10 per hour US jobs across the border attracted Mexicans with the drive to go there, the planning and stamina necessary to get there, the skills to stay there, and the persistence to return if necessary. Those left behind toiled in miserable, unsafe sweatshops for $1 per hour or less and left as soon as they got the chance.

So you know what these maquiladoras got for $1 per hour? Labor that was worth... $1 per hour. This didn't last long. Whole factories and industries started disappearing to Asia, where employers didn't have to compete with the American Dream next door or contend with pesky labor laws or monitors.

Q. Now jobs appear to be returning to Mexico from China. Is this good for the US economy?

Mexico is "local" compared to China. Tijuana is certainly more local to Los Angeles than New York is. Local means more oversight, less environmental damage, and a more direct connection between labor and consumer. Opportunities in Mexico at a time of little opportunity here explains why undocumented workers are returning to Mexico. Manufacturers in Mexico are more likely to use US made parts, particularly under NAFTA. Rebuilding Mexico's supply chain infrastructure after it was gutted by companies relocating to China will also help US manufacturers who import parts.

A "lean" US manufacturer can compete with Mexican manufacturers as long as a weak immigration policy continues to result in adverse selection of Mexican labor. We can't, however, compete with an economy like China's with a low wage workforce, held at gunpoint, that grows by 30 million annually. The original intent of NAFTA was to bring wages in Mexico up to the level of America's wages, and develop a true, viable trading partner and net buyer of our exports. That is a lot more likely to happen now.

And when that happens, work -- not workers -- will be returning to El Norte. 

"American Made" Gets Played by "Free Trade"

Free trade is defined as the ability for a buyer and seller to conduct business without government interference.    So when the government is the buyer why can't it freely choose who to buy from without incumbent sellers claiming interference with free trade?

I have a solution to this loophole-infected quagmire: Scrap protectionist language and simply require sellers to the US, state and local governments to comply with US labor law regardless of where the goods are made. 

A recent NY Times Editorial about the "Buy American" bill is a perfect example of how easily the razzle of "Free Trade" can dazzle the journalistic integrity of our last great voice of skepticism.

"Foreign and domestic companies that employ hundreds of workers in this country cannot bid for government projects because they cannot guarantee the American provenance of all the steel, iron and manufactured goods in their supply chain, as the provision requires.  Others are scrambling to figure out whether American-made alternatives exist to replace their foreign inputs.  The steel company Duferco Farrell, for example, has cut about 600 jobs in Pennsylvania after it lost orders from its biggest customer because some of its goods are partly produced abroad..."

Dear Editor:
 
You just got played.
 
If you believe these companies "don't know the provenance" of their steel and iron, I'd love to sell you a bridge.  It happens to be made out of steel and iron from some company who has absolutely no idea where the steel and iron came from.   The only catch is that your family has to drive over it twice a day for the next forty years.
 
Do you really believe that companies savvy enough to co-opt both the liberal and conservative media elite to their cause are actually "scrambling to find out **whether** American-Made alternatives exist" -- as if this bill magically sailed through Congress without backing from a trade group that would benefit from its passage?
 
And why did Duferco choose to layoff 600 workers rather than produce the goods domestically?  US steel plants are at half capacity.  Isn't this an example of the "Buy American" bill working?   I think I just found the 600 jobs that Duferco lost--at the company that got their business by supplying domestic steel.   Oh, and look! that company needed another 200 Americans to make the steel. A net gain in employment.
 
The editorial moved on to the question of retaliation.   Will our trading partners will stop buying American if we force our government to buy American?
 
What "made in America" products are people in other countries buying that they can--or will--stop buying?  The grains that we can't give away fast enough but that many countries can't get enough of?  Will Chinese teenagers boycott Kanye West because we didn't use chinese iron to build a new airport in Chicago? How about American brands like Nike? If no one buys another Nike shoe, ever, how many American manufacturing jobs will be lost?
 
I'm not being coy, I really want to know. How about Caterpillar? 60 minutes featured their CEO terrified of how the Buy American act could cost his company business because the Chinese won't buy Caterpillar frontloaders.  Caterpillar monster trucks are a commodities?  Then why are Asian governments already paying double for a Caterpillar over a Korean frontloader?  It's the Free Trade Razzle Dazzle. Whackity Schmackity Doo, Leslie Stahl, you forgot to ask Caterpillar if they were upset that they'd have to spend more to buy domestic steel to use in trucks used in infrastructure projects.
 
And what about steel?  If we can't win bids here without legislative intervention, how are we going to win them overseas? What else are we a net exporter of? Scrap metal? Nuclear technology?
 
Foreign governments only buy American Made products as a last resort already. If we are not the only, the best, or the cheapest, we are shut out of a market, save for some diplomatic crumbs.    The USA is already the victim of protectionism--governments abroad protect their industries by denying workers rights, keeping labor costs low, and subsidize industries to keep American industry out under the guise of "Free Trade".  
 
US Protectionism won't invite retaliation... US PROTECTIONISM IS THE RETALIATION.
 
Without a Buy American clause a Federal Contractor has a hard time competing with importers. The Federal Acquistion Regulations have hundreds of laws regarding the way contractors treat their employees--unless the supplies are manufactured outside the United States, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands are, in which case they are always exempt from these regulations.  My company has to pay minimum wage, honor collective bargaining agreements, pay time and a half, not employ children, not co-erce labor, give minorities and the disabled equal opportunity, and it goes on.  
A competitive factory in Mexico does not have to honor these laws.  Guess which contractor is the low bidder?
 
At a minimum, if we don't want to violate trade agreements, our trading partners should be subject to the same Federal Acquisition Regulations domestic contractors are if they want to do business with the US government.  I would take that over a Buy American clause any day.

Making it in the USA

Looking for some good economic news? Look no further than US Manufacturing.  China's advantages in manufacturing have all but eroded  according to Business Week.    The US Trade Deficit sank to a ten year low.  And all sorts of indeces are pointing to an impending expansion in domestic manufacturing ahead of the rest of the economy.  This is such positive news I'm hesitant to even mention it.  At this point my grandma would chide me for begging the evil eye to come and knock my optimism down a peg, and attempt to ward it off with a medieval Yiddish spell ("kinna hurra").  What's happening and why?

Legislation Levels the Playing Field

President Obama’s stimulus package contains a "Buy American" amendment that extends the military's domestic requirement for uniforms into Homeland Security uniforms for the first time, and it also added a domestic preference for the manufactured goods used in stimulus infrastructure projects.  President Obama's mandate to increase union membership nationwide will add millions of end users of "union made" products, and it will also create a second potential customer for promo gear at every company whose employees join unions. If the Employee Free Choice Act passes, the demand for union‐made promotional goods will increase further.
  
In addition to these changes, the "Sweatfree" grassroots movement to end government purchase of sweatshop‐made apparel is likely to be the biggest boon to domestic manufacturing this year. Pennsylvania passed the first law, and ten other states are likely to pass similar laws by this summer, prohibiting purchases from factories that engage in labor practices which violate basic human rights, including child labor, employee abuse, and lethal conditions.  These conditions are typical in manufacturing facilities outside the United States and countries with labor costs higher thanthe US.  In the short term, only domestic manufacturers will qualify to make police and fire uniforms, or even state university logo gear. In the long term, as factories overseas are brought into compliance with these laws, they will no longer be able to undercut domestic labor costs by violating human rights in the workplace.
  
"Made in USA" is Staging a Comeback
  
Attitudes have shifted toward favoring domestic gear as well.  Presidential election years always provide a boost to domestic wearables sales, and last year was no exception.  In 2008 all the official and even a lot of "unofficial" campaign and inauguration merchandise was made domestically, since the items had collectible value, and a Made in USA label served as a de facto certificate of authenticity for many vendors.  This wave carried past the inauguration with momentum helped by awareness‐raising by the Obama administration and politicians and pundits from across the political spectrum.  First, the banking and auto industry crises highlighted the dangers of an economy that lacks a strong manufacturing base. Second, President Obama made labor standards and sweatshops a major issue in his candidacy.  Both of these factors are making companies think twice about the damage they might do by purchasing goods made abroad in orde to save money.
 
The Premium Paid for Domestic Goods Keeps Shrinking
 
This shift in attitude became critical because the premium being paid for domestic goods has been shrinking for the last several years, due to the steadily declining dollar, making domestic goods relatively less expensive, inflation in China, and the slow acceptance of human rights in Chinese workplaces driving up wages (from prison labor to subsistence level).  Shipping costs have subsided, but piracy and the slowdown in global trade in general, coupled with fear of another spike in oil prices, have led domestic companies to rethink relying on overseas shipping for all merchandise.  The global slowdown has shuttered many factories in China, enabling the remaining factories to raise prices and dictate more stringent terms.
 
The shrinking spread between import and domestic pricing has highlighted many of the benefits of purchasing domestically made goods. Local manufacturers can deliver goods more quickly, and will customize goods in much smaller quantities. Sampling and product development can be done quickly without language problems, exorbitant shipping costs, and import/export nightmares.  Goods can be delivered as ready if needed, instead of waiting for an entire order to be completed.  American decorators can print and embroider cut parts, which can cost less than half as much as finished goods, while offering a larger print area and much better registration quality.  
  
All of this has worked in favor of flexible domestic manufacturers, who could change products and markets in response to changes in supply and demand.  For less flexible manufacturers, the recession presented an insurmountable challenge, and many domestic manufacturers have filed for bankruptcy.  At a time of increasing demand for domestic goods, the companies that survive will have an opportunity to grow and prosper.
 
This is no short term trend.  Attitudes towards "Made in USA" ebb and flow, and our economy will rebound.  But the era of cheap imports fueled by US domination of the economies of third world countries is over for now.  It is these cheap imports that made domestic goods look expensive, when in fact the cost of a USA made T-shirt or cap has not even kept pace with inflation since manufacturing started moving overseas in the 1980s.  The standard of living in the third world can only get better, human rights historically have only moved forward over time, and our national debt will keep the value of the dollar down for generations.  As the relative pricing of imported and domestic goods converge, the advantages of buying domestically will look more and more attractive.
 

At Least Red State Employers Won't Have to Pay Health Insurance... Yet

Red state laborers will finally make as much as their blue state counterparts next month, when the Federal Minimum Wage is raised to $7.25. Most of the blue states, ours included, had already raised their legal minimums to that level years ago, but a map of the states still slumming it at the Federal Minimum Wage is basically identical to the 2008 map of states won by John McCain, proving once again that the more someone needed a change, the less likely they were to vote for it. What IS the matter with Kansas?

 

I can't blame non union, red state employers for panicking right now. I had a solid two years of panic before New Jersey raised our minimum wage by 40% ahead of the rest of the country.
 
We weren't paying our workers minimum wage, but we weren't paying entry level positions $7.50 either 4 years ago. After taxes, workers comp, health insurance, pension, vacation, holidays, and sick days, a worker earning $7.50 costs Unionwear $13.28 per hour worked. In Georgia, where the state minimum is still $5.15, the cost to our non union competitors is only $5.88 per hour worked. Yes, that's Savannah, not Tsibilisi.
 
I stopped taking a paycheck for four months, raised prices, worked out a deal with our union to give us credit for mandated increases, and begged the state for help improving our productivity to enable us to compete with red state manufacturers. It would be a struggle to survive. At least our workers would be happier, I thought.
 
It turns out everything I anticipated about the wage increase turned out to be wrong.
 
1. We had to give the raise a month ahead of time. About a month and a half before the increase, many local business took advantage of uninformed workers by advertising hiring at $7.15 an hour. Seven shortsighted employees, about 10% of our staff who were making under $7.15, jumped ship. Many did not realize they would be getting an increase soon after that. None realized they either gave up benefits worth about $3 per hour for $.65 an hour in pretax earnings, or would have a new waiting period for benefits.
 
2. The workers were uniformly unhappy because of an attitude that can only be described as "even though I just got a 30% raise, the lady sitting next to me used to make less than me and now she makes the same". This led to across the board increases for everyone, as most of the employees making under the minimum now had to make more to keep their caste system intact--and those making well over minimum needed increases as well.
 
3. Productivity saving investments started to look quite tasty. In two years, our cost for a completely unskilled laborer rose nearly 50%, from about $1400 a month loaded to $2100 per month loaded. Suddenly, spending $20,000 on programmable sewing machines that eliminated the need for an unskilled cutapart or trimming person had a one year payback. After some quick math, we decided to lease a number of these machines to replace the unskilled laborers who so graciously naturally selected themselves for attrition with poor decision making ability.
 
4. Skilled labor became far more valuable. It turns out that $20,000 machines need $50,000 mechanics, especially when being operated by miminum wage employees. Our mechanic left for higher pay, and our backup left also. Many local businesses were laying off two unskilled/unmotivated $7.50 employees and replacing them with one fast, sharp $15 per hour laborer. This flight to quality basically took our cutter, mechanic, and shipper, who were all making $10-$15 per hour. Their replacements now all earn $15-$25 per hour.
 
5. Unskilled labor became far less valuable. Unskilled, unmotivated, and untrainable employees could still pay for their wages and union benefits when they cost $70 per day. But it was hard to justify spending $100 per day on someone whose skills could not progress beyond using scissors and a broom. We spent as much time eliminating unskilled work through training and motivation for nearly all the workers, but those who couldn't or wouldn't had to become the state's problem. Incidentally, all seven of the workers who were unable to realize they were leaving a job for less money ended up on unemployment by the end of that summer.
 
6. The state came to the rescue, providing us with a grant that quickly more than doubled our productivity, which lowered our unit labor costs while simultaneously raising our employees earnings even further through the use of incentive bonuses. Now when our low labor cost state competitors raise their prices because of the minimum wage increase, a union shop 11 miles from midtown Manhattan will be the lowest cost producer in the country.
 
7. We were able to more than compensate for the additional labor costs by expanding, which spread our overhead over double the amount of products. We also changed the way we looked at the relationship between materials and labor, processes, and the management/employee relationship in general. None of this would have happened without the minimum wage increase.
 
I guess whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and this is no exception. The only Widespread Panic I hope to see in the south this summer will be touring with the Allman Brothers.

 

Labormetrics: Cut Labor Costs by Paying Time and a Half

 

Before the break up of Ma Bell in 1986, long distance phone calls used to cost a fortune.  Then competition like Sprint and MCI drove down the cost of long distance, and by the 1990s long distance calls were less expensive than local calls.  But that is still news to my grandmother, who to this day will not talk on the phone to another area code for more than 59 seconds.

Our former plant manager was similarly phobic towards overtime pay, prohibiting it under any circumstances. And I never questioned him--after all, with our labor costs so high to begin with, how could we possibly make any money paying 50% more for the same work?  A year after he retired, we faced a tremendous temporary surge in business--providing both 2008 presidential candidates with hats and bags.  We had to make a quick decision--do we hire 20 more sewing operators, or give 80 of our operators the chance to (voluntarily) work an extra 10 hours a week at time and a half?  I don't know what drove me to "do the math"--on the surface it seemed that hiring the cheaper new operators would be a no brainer--but the answer actually astonished me.

The first thing I noticed was that our regular time was actually costing us more than time and a half.  Besides the 11% federal employer portion of taxes, we had 3% for workers comp, 3% on our pension contribution, and 1% on city taxes--an 18% vig to the system.  Then there was 25 days of unworked pay: 10 holidays, 10 vacation days, and 5 personal and sick days, all subject to the 18% vig. When amortized over the other 236 weekdays in the year it meant 12.5% of every dollar of regular pay went to fund unworked pay. Finally, our health insurance costs worked out to $2.22 per regular hour worked, or 22% of a $10.00 wage. We also gave production bonuses averaging $.75 per hour, or 7.5%.

So regular pay was costing us 60% more than the gross wage. How does that compare to overtime?  The health insurance, unworked pay, and pension were all paid for by regular time--they don't increase with overtime. We don't give production bonuses on overtime hours, and in our state workers comp is not charged to overtime hours. That just leaves the 12% in payroll taxes, plus the "and a half" premium (also subject to 12%)--a total of 68%.  

So all things being equal, overtime was costing just 5% more (168%/160%) than regular time per hour for the same employee.  But all things are not equal--because when overtime is necessary, the alternative is hiring a new employee, training them, replacing them, training their replacement, then letting them go when demand goes back down before they reach their full potential. They may be a couple of dollars cheaper, but for the first few months they add so much less value and require so much more high labor cost supervision.

Another argument against overtime is that it fatigues the workers. What we discovered was that a number of our workers had second jobs that they gave up because they were making more in ten hours of overtime than they were in twenty hours of their part time second jobs.  One of the great benefits of voluntary overtime pay is that so much more of the payroll costs ends up the employees pockets. If an employee is making a just over a living wage, overtime can multiply their discretionary income many times over.

In this recession I regularly read about companies who cut back hours to save labor costs. In the scenario above, a $10 worker costs the company around $16 per hour whether they are working regular time or undertime.  However, if their hours are cut back to 32 hours per week, that means that health insurance and unworked pay are amortized over 20% fewer hours--so labor costs per hour increase significantly.  Employees may be sacrificing to share the pain, but both companies and employees always lose out when workers don't work at least 40 hours.

So the bottom line--don't fear overtime--it doesn't cost a company any more than regular time, and it may cost a lot less.

 

 

How the Garment Industry Got the Labor Equation So Wrong (and Why This is so Important)

It seems so obvious: if you don't pay employees enough to live on, you will have low morale and high turnover, lowering productivity and creating less value. The reduction in value created will always exceed the labor costs saved. So if sweatshop owners are really "greedy", why don't they see this when they look at their labor force, factory, and financial statements? Because they can't, for two reasons:

--Piece rate work does not create value and commoditizes laborers--to the factory owner's detriment.

--Archaic, irrelevant labor costing techniques developed before spreadsheets and exported overseas become dangerous agents of poor decision making in the hands of managers who don't understand the underlying math.

 

First, a wiki-sized history of the garment industry. Mass communications and the growth of department stores and catalogs made mass merchandising of fashion possible. However, the difficulties in predicting fashion success coupled with long lead times required to produce a clothing line made conventional financing difficult. Investors wanted a piece of the profits--but profits in this shady business too often fell victim to a bookkeeper's eraser, the back of a wise guy's truck, extravagant garment district overheads, or a foolhardy position in a fabrication with fleeting fame. So investors settled on more predictable metrics: Labor costs could be based on negotiated piece rates and materials costs on yields. Overhead could be controlled by limiting expenses to 40 or 50% of labor costs, a benchmark at the time. If overhead were higher than that the investors' share of the profits would come out of the manufacturers' pockets.

This model lasted for a while, but profits were still elusive (because piece rates produce pieces, not garments, but more on that later). The industry moved to a licensing model which just ignored profits and took fees off of sales--now Calvin Klein doesn't produce a thing and just gets a royalty check based on sales from the vertical conglomerate that manufactures the clothing.

But the piece rates and overhead multipliers survived in the costing departments like nipples on men. Factory owners and industrial engineers measured labor costs one way: with a clipboard and a stopwatch, meticulously timing production of every step multiple times for accuracy, then increasing it by some divine multiplier like 40% to account for overhead: The industrial engineering equivalent of ordering a bacon double cheeseburger with a diet coke. Garment factories shipped these metrics to Asia along with their equipment and systems of work and they exist, unquestioned, to this day.

The problem with piece rates is that they encourage workers to produce pieces--not garments. If a worker is paid by the collar they sew, you'll end up with a ton of collars, but you may not get a ton of shirts. Collars have no value--you can't sell them. The reason garment factories rarely achieved profitability in piece rate systems was that the profits ended up on the floor, in piles of work-in-process. Sure, value was created--someone would eventually make and buy a jacket, but imagine all that gratuitous effort in the name of productivity!

If a worker only sews collars, she is going to go from novice to expert in a short period of time and make the better paid veteran sitting next to her start to look expensive. This commoditizes the laborer and makes it difficult to see who has the know how and experience to create value. So when times got tough, it made perfect sense to cut labor costs by squeezing out higher paid veterans. And, because the workers were focused on producing parts rather than the whole to begin with, value creation probably didn't suffer much.

The overhead multiplier used in the garment industry became a weapon of mass destruction when Excel was introduced to the schmata trade. That overhead is 40%-50% of labor in garment manufacturing was as accepted a benchmark as the keystone markup is in retail. But using this benchmark in financial modeling and decision making without regard to its origins or the underlying math will lead to some terrible decisions.

Keep in mind that in financial statements, labor is only charged when a product is sold. All other expenses--such as the labor invested in work in process that is not made into garments--gets put into inventory. So when a spreadsheet uses 40% of labor costs to calculate overhead rather than trying to predict the actual overhead, overhead--representing "fixed" expenses--appears to fluctuate with labor costs. If you lower your labor costs, your overhead will be appear to be reduced, when in reality it stays the same and probably increases because of the need for additional management. If you increase your labor costs, or add more laborers and expand within the same facility, or you create more value and sell more units using the same workers, your overhead will appear to increase, when in reality it stays the same and actually decreases on a unit basis.

And when you tag an artificial expense onto your labor costs, you obscure your true unit profitability. In other words--YOU CANNOT SEE HOW MUCH MONEY YOUR WORKERS ARE MAKING FOR YOU, which marginalizes the impact of better workers, further commoditizing them.

One of my favorite quotes was from a one time garment magnate whose company was insolvent and we were negotiating to buy his assets. His calculations used the overhead multiplier, and mine used actual labor costs and actual overhead costs. Of course his calculations showed his company should still be in business, because they neglected the eighteen 40-yard dumpsters of obsolete work-in-process we had to remove after the deal closed. Our calculations showed much lower profitability. He said to me, "With the way you calculate profits, I can't understand how you make any money." He--and his generation of "garmentos"--would never understand that value can't be created with a calculator.

This distinction is critical to the the fight against sweatshops. There appears to be a battle within the left about whether to boycott sweatshops, police sweatshops, or just ignore them, because in many environments a job in a sweatshop is far better than the alternative. I believe in a fourth way: co-operation. There are practices in every sweatshop that hurt both workers and management, and whose elimination would help both labor and management, but management knows no alternative. They just know the clipboard, the stopwatch, and the piles of work in process showing that everyone has plenty of work. If we could just show sweatshop management how to create more value by converting that waste into wages, those factories would become more competitive, and the race to the bottom might start to reverse itself.

What's Latina Got To Do With It?

 

So the Obama administration wants to keep the promises made to Latino Voters on immigration, but they want to work with Latino groups to help build public support behind amnesty for illegal aliens before taking the fight to Congress.  
 
Since Latinos are being sold as face of illegal immigration I guess the diplomatic approach would be to engage Latino US citizens in the solution. 
 
This makes exactly as much sense as engaging Asian Americans in developing a solution to our massive debt to China. Or engaging Arab Americans in developing a solution to terrorism. First, Asians... Arabs... Latinos...  are not "A People".  Those words are labels whose only constructive use is to give police sketch artists a head start.  Second, a US citizen may identify with some ethnicity, but on economic issues he is probably going to have the agenda of a US citizen.  Third, the various groups that overlap with and make up a mythical ethnicity may have competing goals that make appealing to their constituencies and harnessing their energies impossible.
 
To demonstrate, I'd like to simulate a conversation between the Obama Administration's director of Latino Policy and a curious small business owner from Newark, NJ.
 
Q. What is a "Latino"?
A. A person of Hispanic descent living in North America.
Q. Spanish is a race? I thought it was a language.
A. Spanish is the language spoken by the Hispanic people.
Q. So Spaniards are Latinos?
A. Well, they are Hispanic, but not Latino. Latinos descended from people who first migrated to South America.
Q. What about Mexicans? That's North America.
A. You're right! OK--Latinos are immigrants or decendants of immigrants from South of the USA border.
Q. What about Puerto Ricans? They are US citizens. They don't consider themselves immigrants and the Puerto Rican Newarkers i know are to the right of Lou Dobbs on immigration because they feel their jobs are most threatened by illegal aliens.
A. Yes, of course Puerto Ricans are Latinos. Bad word choice with "immigrate". Latinos include anyone who migrated from South of the border. 
Q. So are Jamaicans Latino?
A. No, Jamaicans aren't Latino. They are Caribbean. But they face the same issues that non-Puerto Rican Latinos face with regards to immigration, so when we say Latino immigration groups, we really mean Latinos and Caribbean Islanders that are pushing for immigration amnesty. Latino is just a convenient shorthand.
Q. What "same issues"? Cubans are Caribbean and the Cubans I work with look at immigration as a political rather than an economic issue. They also claim that Cubans are not Latino. And an immigrant from South America that has to get through Central America and Mexico to get into the USA has a lot more at stake than a Mexican immigrant both in getting here and staying here.
A. Latino has nothing to do with a stance on immigration. It's a culture. And your last "Q" wasn't a question. It was a statement. More specifically, hearsay.
Q. Culture? I'm thinking that most of these so-called Latinos have as much culture in common with each other as the Germans and the Italians. I bet many immigrants never had contact with Latinos from another culture until they came to the USA.  And if Latino has nothing to do immigration, why are "Latino Voters" considered a monolithic demographic whose main issue is immigration?
A. Well, aside from Puerto Ricans and Cubans I really think most Latino Voters are looking for immigration amnesty.
Q. Aside from Puerto Ricans and Cubans how many Latinos actually have the right to vote in this country--and actually exercise that right?
A. Good question. Probably a very disproportionately low amount. We don't ask for race in the voting both, but we have done some polling.
Q. So you are basing your policy on polling results which require people to first identify themselves with an ethnicity with an ever-shifting definition?  Then you ask people who may be terrified of deportation whether they are a US citizen and you expect them to believe that their answers are held in confidence?  Do you really believe that the Latinos who came here legally have no issues with Latinos from other countries who came here illegally and are threatening their jobs as well? 
A. Those questions sound rhetorical--point taken. Cubans speak Spanish so from our standpoint they are Latino but, you're right, we don't waste our time discussing illegal immigration with a Cuban audience..
Q. So what about Brazilians? They speak Portugeuse?
A. Sorry, my bad. Brazilians are Hispanic because they have descended from Hispania, the ancient country composed of Spain and Portugal. And Hispanics living in North America are Latino.
Q. What about Argentinians? Argentinians are as likely to be ethnically German or Italian as they are Hispanic.
A. Look, Brazilians, Argentinians, Colombians, Venezuelans, Chileans...if your ancestors came from South America and their ancestors came from Europe, you're Latino. But immigrants from those countries are not a problem for the USA. In fact, the Brazilians in Newark have been returning to South America where the economy is better, and their apartments and jobs are being taken over by Ecuadorans, Newark's largest Latino group.
Q. But the Ecuadorans ancestors were predominantly indigenous to South America, not Europe. Are you telling me those Ecuadorans are not Latino?
A. Yes, they are Latino, but I guess they aren't Hispanic.  OK--now I got it. Latino actually means from Latin America, which includes Mexico, Central America, South America, and Spanish speaking Caribbean countries.  
Q. Newark's fastest growing South American immigrant community is from Guyana. They speak English and trace their roots to India. You're not going to tell me they are Latino, are you?
A. No, actually, I'm going to tell you to get the hell out of my office.
 

 

Just Dessert for Encouraging Employee Turnover

How does replacing an existing worker with a cheaper, newer worker affect a company's bottom line?  Labor costs are indeed reduced. But Value Created is also reduced, usually by an amount that dwarfs the labor savings.  We can measure Value over Replacement Personnel--VORP--by comparing the difference in both Value Created and Labor Costs for a typical employee and her replacement.  First, some definitions:

 
Value Created is Sales less Materials Costs and represents the value the marketplace places on the fruits of a worker's labor.
 
Loaded Labor Cost is the amount an employer spends on that employee--wages, benefits, taxes, unworked pay, workers comp, etc.
 
Net Value Created is Value Created less Loaded Labor Costs. This amount is used to pay rent, insurance, utilities, and other overhead; marketing, research, and development expenses; professional fees, taxes, interest, reinvestments in corporate sustainability and any other fixed costs.  A company is profitable when Net Value Created exceeds these fixed costs.
 
Net Value Created is not Gross Profit. Gross Profit is a metric used by MBAs and CPAs that allocates some fixed expenses to labor and materials costs for tax purposes.  It takes what could be a black and white calculation and turns it into arbitrary hocus pocus that leads to bad decision making by management. 
 
Value Created is reduced when existing workers are replaced with cheaper, new workers because overall productivity suffers for almost a year.  Unfortunately, sweatshops are prevalent in the garment industry because of the widespread belief that garment workers are “unskilled laborers”. Entry level workers are quickly as productive as veterans, but are willing to work for less. Sweatshop owners believe conditions and policies that encourage high employee turnover keep labor costs low without penalty. 
 

It may be easy to train employees to sew as fast as a veteran in front of an engineer with a stopwatch, but there is a big productivity difference between rookies and veterans—because the veterans spend much more time creating value. Veterans know where the thread is, where the scissors are, how to fix the needle, how to read the work instructions, what to do when an order doesn’t seem right, what to do when the manager isn’t there, what work to do next, how to avoid injuries, how to stop an order with a quality problem, etc. Rookies can sew fast on the cheap but can’t do anything when the work runs out until an expensive manager or mechanic comes over and tells them what to do next.

We have a team incentive program based on the number of minutes worked by a group of sewers.  For 90 days, new employees (and we only hire experienced sewers) only count half of the minutes they worked toward  the bonus. For the next 90 days the employee counts 75% of her minutes. They don’t sew any slower than the veterans, but they produce half as much because they spend so much less time creating value.  This progression from 50% to 100% has proven pretty accurate—bonuses remain static when a new team member is hired, and the team leaders neither complain about nor fight over new employees, which they would if a newbie made bonuses less likely or more likely.

So, by the end of year one, one average new employee has produced 81% of what a veteran employee has.  However, a veteran is never replaced by one average employee.  Because another skill that separates these so-called "unskilled laborers" is the ability to show up for work on time, every day, stay healthy, keep their personal problems out of the work place and play well with others.  After 90 days the team leaders have to decide whether this employee is a keeper.  For every employee we keep, one lasts about six weeks, and one lasts 90 days.  Which means after one year, the 3 replacement employees produces 62% of what a veteran employee produces (45 days, 90 days, and 90 days at 50%, 90 days at 75%, and 45 days at 100%).

We'll call this 62% Productivity Loss.  You need a few other variables to calculate your company's VORP:  Average loaded wage, Entry level loaded wage, and loaded labor costs as a percentage of value created ((labor costs) / (sales - materials costs)).

Value Created Per Hour for your company is simply:

(Average Loaded Wage / Labor as a percent of Value Created) 

With an entry level employee Value Created Per Hour would be 62% of that figure.  However, labor costs would be reduced by (Average Loaded Wage less Entry Level Wage).

So at the bottom of the blackboard, we get:

VORP = (1-Productivity Loss) x (Average Loaded Wage / Labor as a percent of Value Created) less (Average Loaded Wage less Entry Level Wage).

Lets try it with a company with where labor is 40% of Value Created, employees cost $15 per hour, and entry level employees cost $10 per hour.

The company's average employees create $15/.4= $37.50 per hour of value. Entry level employees would create 62% x 37.50 = $23.25 per hour.  But the entry level employee would save that employer $15-$10=$5 per hour in labor. You just saved $5 an hour in labor. Congratulations, Einstein! You just cost your company ($37.50-$23.25)=$14.25 in lost Value Created.

The "VORP", or difference in Net Value Created between and existing and an entry level employee, is (1-.62)($15/.4)-($15-$10)=$9.25. That means existing employees are worth $14.25 per hour more than an entry level employee, or $9.25 after the labor savings are considered... and those were real numbers from a union shop.  The formula goes nuts in sweatshops, where labor costs are tiny percentage of the value created and the difference between veteran and rookie pay is miniscule.  In a sweatshop where labor is 10% of the value added and veterans make $.10 more than rookies a veteran sewer creates four times as much net value as a rookie... DO THE MATH! 

Next:  How did the Garment Industry get this SO WRONG?

 

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